Inspired Black chef Offerings in the Triad

February 25, 2023
Plate with grilled avocado, a spicy corn salsa, red onions covered with crema
Grilled Avocado, Oro Restaurant and Lounge, Raleigh NC

From my limited experience, I have noticed that Black American cuisine tends to be typically heavily cultural. While I welcome this cuisine, I admit I’ve yearned to see more Black chefs creating successful restaurants that meld tradition and contemporary ideas.

I was thus excited when research yielded a fine dining restaurant, a cafe producing their own coffees, and a brunch diner in the Raleigh area talented black chefs and bakers in the triad area (herexcursions.com) . Realize that this list by no means exhaustive. However, I believe it is a good start.

BEYU CAFFE

Beyu (be-you) Caffe is actually a chain of 4 cafes located in Durham. I visited what I believe to be the main one Menu | Beyu Caffé Downtown (beyucaffe.com) on Main Street. Satellite cafes include Boxyard RTP, Duke Law School, Duke University – Bryan Center. The Main Street location offers coffee utilizing their signature coffees (purchase online!Beyu Coffee | Shop signature coffee blends and single origin varieties – Beyu Caffé (beyucaffe.com) and a small but select breakfast/brunch menu until 3PM. It opens in the evening with heavier casual fare and even hosts pop up music sessions.

First things first; Parking. TGiven it’s location, you know parking is a bit of a doozy. I noticed limited street parking. However, the one I attempted to park in was only for 30 minutes. My advice is you park in the one of the good number of parking decks/lots in the vicinity. I ended up parking in the Durham City parking lot on W Ramsuer Street and at $2.25 per hour, very affordable. Additionally, it was also a very short walk (through a cut through) to the cafe.

Beyu Caffe is magnificent! It’s large, airy with a chic, modern industrial playful space that that doesn’t take itself seriously. The gorgeous colorful mural leading to the bathroom attests to that. Be at ease in your suit or your sneakers. People-watch from a couple of tables by the window or relax on the long loungers set against exposed brick.

My server, who greeted me as soon as I entered, was the amazing Jasmine. She helped me navigate the contactless menu (scan a code). I ordered the Garden Omelet and the Garden Salad (it comes with optional protein, but I did not want any). Since I don’t drink coffee (don’t roll your eyes), I also ordered a hot chocolate (apparently the first, and definitely the last, of the day). Jasmine made my almond milk hot chocolate as perfectly as I’ve ever bought it (outside of the UK). While I did not try the coffee, based on my hot chocolate, I suspect it needs to be enthusiastically tried by those who imbibe.

A plate with cubed fried potatoes, a vegetarian omelet topped with pesto and pieces of wheat toast, a small metal ramekin if ketchup, butter and smuckers jam.
Garden Omelet, Beyu Caffe, Durham NC

Garden Omelet: It was the pesto drizzle for me. The omelet was great on its own, but that pesto transformed a mundane dish to a very unique, and very distinct one. This is not your vegetarian aunt’s veggie omelet. I’m a certified carnivore but I think this would be my go-to omelet on repeat visits. It was delicious.

Garden Salad: I hate eggs in salad, not sure why. Until now. This is one of the best house salads I’ve ever had. Granted, I held the cheddar (I personally don’t like it on salads), but all the rest of the ingredients just worked. The red wine vinaigrette tied it all together nicely.

ORO

Over a year and a half ago, I came upon Oro ORO Restaurant & Lounge – Downtown Raleigh PNC Building (ororaleigh.com) while wandering downtown Raleigh for the first time. I fell in love with it from outside. It looked high end, elegant, even from outside. Unfortuantely, I just never got a chance to visit the restaurant. I unabashedly admit I did a mental jig when I discovered it for this blog post. A Black man, a Jamaican-American, had founded a phenomenal-appearing fine dining restaurant.

I reserved my table easily enough for early Wednesday early evening. However, given how the restaurant steadily filled about 30 minutes of my arrival, I suspect reservations to be competitive at later times and at the end of the week. Plan accordingly when you visit.

Cory was my server. He relayed that Oro was “tapas-style” and recommended 2-3 dishes per person. I was disappointed, though, when I learned that the tasting menu is only available to parties of at least four. Understandable. Simple economics. That said, a tasting menu at $60 per person is a steal. Trust me on this. For those who can, do it!

I was too excited to stay disappointed for long. Seeing me struggle to decide, Cory asked me to trust him, and offered to choose for me. I eventually acquiesced after I reasoned that I never choose my meal when I have tasting meals anyway. Okay, so it was not complete trust. I made sure to order the grilled octopus but allowed him to choose the other two dishes.

Yes, I had to try one of the specialty cocktails. After a lot of agonizing, I settled on The One with Tequila. I won’t lie. The tiki cup had me giving the drink (and restaurant) with a side eye. Was this not a fine-dining establishment? I took a sip. Phew. Mind. Blown. Just the right kind of sweet, cut by the bitters, while the mélange of guava, and lime came through clearly.

Garden: Cory chose Grilled Avocado for me to start. It came with a corn salsa, crema and radishes. Surprisingly, I enjoyed this. I tend to associate creamy dishes with heaviness, filling. It was actually surprisingly light. Better yet, I loved the little spicy zing. It was the perfect prelude to the meal.

Half a long bone filled with marrow topped with pulled oxtail and red onions and 3 crispy crackers.
Braised Oxtail, Oro Restaurant and Lounge, Raleigh NC

Land: Braised Oxtail. Think a long bone filled with luscious marrow topped with soft, gently pulled oxtail and red onions served with three hard crackers. Whoa. A marriage made in heaven. One that makes me want to weep with happiness. Sheer bliss. The combination of flavors, fat, meat, rosemary create something so divine, so different, yet a marriage so obvious it had no choice but to work.  

A plate with a crispy octopus tentacle, potatoes, beets, carrots, chick peas, peas and curry tahini
Grilled Octopus, Oro Restaurant and Lounge, Raleigh NC

Sea: Grilled Octopus. Friends. All I can say is that I’m grateful to the 24-year-old Barcelona chef of a “hole in the wall” that introduced Chef Chris and Cory to the merits of popo (pulpo). Italy introduced me to octopus. If you try nothing else, try this dish. Octopus is a tricky dish to cook well. However, Oro made makes it look easy. The octopus was phe.no.me.nal. Crispy crunchy outside with a meltingly tender inside. It came with a curry tahini sauce, chickpeas, that all rand root vegetables that rounded off the dish.  

Dessert: Chocolate Dome. A brownie cube and scoop of vanilla ice-cream encased in a chocolate shell, and salted caramel sauce. Wow.

True Flavors Diner

Located off NC Highway 55, the decor is retro with a healthy dose of industrial decor. I loved it. Curiously, I found the restaurant space to be compact yet it did not feel cramped. Anyhow, I daresay that ‘Diner’ is misleading. True Flavors Welcome | trueflavorsdiner is a brunch eatery a giant cut above the rest. Let me count the ways:

Collin was my server, a very helpful at that. I ordered two brunches: A Duck Omelet and a Duck Hash (yes, definitely a theme). Because the omelet came with potatoes (I declined grits), Collin suggested adding Mac and cheese instead, for a small upcharge (1.50). Collin offered, and brought me a small biscuit and jam while I waited for my food. Can you say amuse-bouche, at a ‘diner’ AND for breakfast no less??

A plate with a small puffy biscuit and a small ramekin with blood orange jam.
Small biscuit and house-made blood orang jam, True Flavors Diner, Durham NC

This is a very cool concept – I approve. The biscuit was very fluffy, very buttery, piping hot and from one who typically doesn’t eat biscuits, really good. The jam was not Smuckers. Instead, it was an in-house made blood orange jam. It was just the way I like my jams, more flavorful than sweet and the perfect accompaniment. 

A large plate holding a folded duck omelet topped with watercress, in the foreground there is a small skillet containing macaroni and cheese and tops with cheese shavings
Crispy Duck Omelet with Mac and Cheese, True Flavors Diner, Durham NC

Crispy Duck Omelet: It was large and fluffy, with lots of meat. The pickled red onions added flavor to the omelet. It needed a little more salt otherwise I enjoyed it and would order again. The Mac and cheese side was beautifully served in a mini skillet. It was piping hot, heaped with fresh cheese shavings. Mac and cheese is another dish I tend not to order (I like mine and my mother’s versions). However, I’m glad I ordered this one. I liked it.  

Large white plate containing a small skillet filled with layered potatoes covered in cheese and topped with scallions and fried egg, with a green aioli splash on the plate.
Spiced Duck Hash, True Flavors Diner, Durham NC

Spiced Duck Hash: (yes, there’s a theme, don’t judge me) It comes topped with two eggs (done your way). The potatoes are not typical hash cut – they are sliced instead, layered with the other ingredients. There was plenty of duck meat and it was very flavorful. 

True Flavors menu also includes catfish, gator (yes!) and vegetarian options. The chicken and waffles look outstanding, and this and more with very reasonable prices. My bill was $36.01. 

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Comments

  • Kudos to you for allowing yourself to try new things! Sounds like a trip to the triangle is needed soon

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