I admit to knowing zilch about Barcelona and the vicinity, let alone if it was outdoors-types friendly. Of course, I knew it was on the water and so I was fairly confident that I could find at minimum, a good running route to get the blood moving. Imagine my joy at quickly discovering ready access to nature in and around Barcelona, making it one of the best cities for outdoor lovers in my opinion.
I noticed a plethora of trails in the city. The Montjuic area is one of those places. The city is also replete with bike lanes, and they are used readily for commuting and getting around. I also discovered a lot of trails a train ride away, no more than a couple of hours from Barcelona.
A little running
I managed to get in what would eventually be the only run in Barcelona, on the second day of the trip. It was still dark when I hopped onto La Ramblas Las Ramblas in Barcelona: Essential Guide & Advice (barcelona-tourist-guide.com) to run. As typically happens when I travel, I did not have a destination in mind, and really had no idea where I was going except for the general direction of where I knew the water lay.
I was happy to find that I was not the only runner out and about. As usual, most of them were men. Because while the area was well lit and there was plenty of morning traffic, there were still some small pools of darkness. Still, I kept my eyes and ears well open and generally felt safe. I was able to have an enjoyable run that, unfortunately, did not take me to the waterfront, but close to it (as I found out later on my Garmin International | Home map)
Montserrat – Sant Jeroni Hike
One of my major trip goals was to hike. I had vaguely considered hiking a portion of a coastal trail since we would be visiting Monserrat anyway Christmas in Barcelona – HER//Excursions (herexcursions.com). I quickly, and decisively jettisoned that plan when we did the monastery tour.
Monserratt Mountain is home to a Benedictine monastery that is dedicated to Catalonia’s most important saint, Our Lady of Monserratt, or Virgin of Monserratt. She is depicted as La Morenta, for her dark skin, dating back to the 12th century. According to our guide, every Catalonian is still expected to make a pilgrimage to the site.
Just a glance of the surroundings make it clear why. I cannot describe the deep sense of spirituality, of peace, that this savagely beautiful place evokes. I still feel it when I think about it now. The abbey locations thus not a surprise. However, I admit the sheer giddy joy of the existence of hiking trails bordered on the euphoric.
My daughter is not a hiker but given that she was game to indulge me, I chose the Sant Jeroni trail for us. The trail starts at the abbey and climbs up to the peak of Sant Jeroni. It is considered difficult. Yes, it was challenging, but every doable for a moderately fit person taking their time.
The hike was a series of steps that appeared endless at times, a forest, more stairs, all surrounded by magnificent rock walls, before the push to the top. Meanwhile, we were passed by a tide of runners (mostly headed down), and we passed a pair of rock climbers. The view was very much worth the struggle. It felt like we were above the clouds and between that and the 360-degree view, it was exhilarating.
Monserratt – Sant Michel Cross Hike
I added this short trail (after leaving the daughter at the cafe to rest after Sant Jeroni) because we had a little time. It’s reachable via the San Jeroni trail, however I did an out and back from the abbey. It is short and paved, but it is insanely steep on the way there. I was still glad I did it when I reached the cross, due to the views. I do recommend it for visitors willing to take their time, have decent cardiovascular reserves and are not natural hikers. But just remember that it is a calf buster and heart pumper.
* A quick note about getting there. We took taxi to Placa Espanya, and bought Tot (return) tickets that included a ride on the R5 train to Aeri de Monserratt, where we transferred to a cable car that took us up the mountain. It was incredibly wind and cold, but the views were phenomenal. The other option is to take the R5 to Monistrol de Monserratt before transitioning to the rail track. Frankly, we preferred the former.
