Of the trip, I was most excited with exploring the culinary delights of Nice and Monte Carlo The Last Days of Winter in Nice – HER//Excursions (herexcursions.com). After all, this is France. I had no doubt my palate would well rewarded. Imagine my surprise when I discovered that every other restaurant in Nice center seemed to offer pizza and/or pasta. My Alps guide confirmed that this when he explained that Nice used to be part of Italy.
My first meal in Nice was brunch. Hungry, I chose a restaurant at random. Still, I did not want a heavy meal and thus settled on a ham and mushroom omelet. It came with teeny tiny serving of greens dressed with a dash of vinegar, and fries. It was, meh. Now, the Kir, on the other hand, was something else. I had chosen the traditional version made with white wine, however mine had champagne instead. It was a happy circumstance, since I don’t usually like champagne. I admit doing damage to the baguette as well.
Le Chantecler
Nice inspired me to treat myself to the most extravagant meal I’ve ever had. I chose Le Chantecler at Hotel Negresco Le Chantecler | Negresco (hotel-negresco-nice.com) to do that.
Entry into the restaurant overlooks the grandest, biggest rotunda I’ve ever seen. The restaurant was no less sumptuous. I sat at a table for one. The maître d’ relayed that it used to be the chosen table of a former owner. I felt honored.
Dinner was an affair. I had an option of a 5-course meal, but I chose the 8. The feast began with an amuse bouche of five bite-sized tiered treats that were a selection of local favorites, including socca. I had to eat them in a specific order to maximize taste. I found the tiny treats mighty.
And then the pastry chef dropped by. He explained sourcing of the bread and served me freshly made boule, a pecorino twist, and a seeded cracker. The bread was accompanied by two types of butter, one with sea salt, the other mixed with olive oil. In the end, I devoured half the loaf and all of the twist. Let it not be said I let good bread go to waste.
A seabass and oyster tartar topped with caviar began the meal. The lemon cream expertly melded the flavors so that I didn’t hate the caviar like I normally do. I savored a Medjool date with red endive and pecans topped with a herbal granita. I’ve never seen a savory granita but I was an instant fan. And then it was time to eat cod. It blew my mind. My vision told me to anticipate a sushi-like flavor. But I was wrong. My tastebuds found a perfectly cooked fish, served in the most amazing white asparagus in lemon balm butter sauce.
I was still processing my dinner thus far when the maître d’ brought me a goldleaf covered lollipop filled with Calvados, the apple liqueur from the chef’s home of Normandy. It was exquisite. However, my senses were elevated yet again by the beef cheek-stuffed ravioli. The streak continued with the Jersey (old Jersey, not New Jersey) beef that followed. Supple, and luscious are the perfect descriptors.
I loved the dessert concept. The pre-dessert was marinated kiwi with a kiwi sorbet and aloe vera. The kiwi aloe vera combination was a winner. My dessert was two layers of the most delicate chocolate leaves with a citrus mousse and a sorbet. It was as much a work of art as a palate pleaser. The post-dessert (as I called it) was another selection of half bite-sized local specialties. I enjoyed what tasted like a fried orange Madeline, a teeny beignet filled with some kind of cream, rolled up candied fruit (very sweet), a lovely dot-sized merengue with mousse and a Madagascar vanilla bean.
The Le Chantacler dinner was outstanding. It went beyond my expectations. I even left with a gift of a their orange cake, and a copy of the chef’s signed menu.
La Villa Massenet
I found La Villa Massenet – Restaurant Nice (la-villa-massenet-restaurant-nice.com) on an online search. It was just about a block away from my accommodation. I was able to walk in and easily get a table because it was still too early for the European dinner service.
In an effort to keep it light, I opted to jsut order a starter and a cocktail. I had the Foie gras with ginger bread and fig jam. I admit to apprehension regarding the ginger bread, but it turned out to be actual bread made with ginger (and not the cake). Surprisingly, I did not find the foie gras overwhelmingly rich as I have done in the past. It was creamy and perfect and paired beautifully with the slightly sweet bread and fig jam.
And of course I had the bread rolls. They would have great warm, but I admit I still enjoyed them cold. More so once I asked for olive oil to dunk them in. Of note, I noticed that I had to ask for butter or olive oil at a number of eateries. So plan to ask if you don’t either.
Marche aux Fleurs Cours Saleya
Passidiere and socca are just two of the local specials that can be found at The Cours Saleya market Nice (niceshopping.fr). The former is essentially an onion pizza topped with an olive, plus or minus a small fish. I tried, and loved, both versions. While I could have tried the latter from the market, I decided to try it from Loukalu as I had been advised by a local. Socca is a chickpea crêpe. And I loved it. I would have had 2 had I been able to. That’s saying something since I typically don’t like crepes.
Even more food
I admit to trying various pastries from places around town. These included a perfectly textured and flavored lemon cake from bakery in Nice. I also tried breadsticks from the same bakery; one had olives, another sundried tomatoes. They were crunchier than I expected but, good.
I had lunch at a restaurant in Old Nice and went with a Focaccia Parma, a ham, cheese and tomato sandwich. It came with a salad of tomatoes, spring greens with a dab of balsamic vinegar. While fresh, the salad really was basic. On the other hand, I really enjoyed the sandwich.
Strange as it is, I was minding my own business when I was lured in by a sign announcing mulled wine (from gelato and coffee shop no less). I was initially going to get it to go but changed my mind. I’m glad I did because I ended taking a second cup to go. It was the first time I’ve ever had mulled wine and I was immediately obsessed by the spices.
Not least of all, I had to sample a chocolate mousse from Lac – a chocolate shop between Old Nice and the shopping district. My insides practically melted over the mousse that featured crushed up cookies and hazelnuts.
Monte Carlo
Cafe Milano
I discovered the restaurant Caffè Milano – an exciting dining experience – Port Hercule’s best yachts (caffemilano.mc)on my way to the hotel from the train station. Later, the receptionist called in a dinner reservation for me after I inquired about it. Located at the Port in Monaco, Cafe Milano is a mid-range restaurant with a modern, chic but relaxed vibe.
My dinner consisted of a lovely cocktail and, delicious fresh bread and a roasted baby chicken on pureed mashed potatoes. The menu offered an option of jalapeno potatoes and that is the version I had requested. However, the jalapenos sat on top of my chicken. They were also zero on the Scoville scale. Still, this simple but hearty dish was one of my favorites of the trip. I ended the meal with tiramisu (because, why not?). It came in a huge wafer bowl, and it was rich and infinitely better than I thought it would be.
Marche de la Condamine
The Condamine market is one of the main markets in Monte Carlo and I stopped by for a late lunch. Given that it was a Sunday, there were limited open eateries in the hall. I landed on one that offered salad. Admittedly, I have never felt the urge to try salad nicoise. But I figured I’d give it a go since I was in it’s region (Nice) of origin. It was fresh and enjoyable enough, including the anchovies I was sure I would hate. However, it was the tuna that came with the salad that I found overpowering. It brought back memories of canned fish at boarding as a child.
Pizza Mama
I had brunch at Accueil – Pizza Mama (pizza-mama.com) overlooking the Condamine Market square. I chose Grilled Poulpe (octopus) with olives and balsamic on puréed potatoes. It was the biggest piece of octopus I’ve ever had. I was excited until a closer look made me suspect it was a little firm. I was not wrong. It was a smidge chewier than I would have liked. Still, it was decent enough for me the eat the heck out of the entire thing. And I have to say the olive balsamic flavor and potatoes were money.
But wait…there’s more!
There is no way I was going to leave Nice without having a piece of Pate En Croute. I unfortunately did not have enough time (nor the stomach) to eat an entire loaf, and so I had to settle for just a slice. I could have wept with happiness. This triple-deckered monster was as divine. So much so I’m determined to make it one day.
The brioche, a cream filled tropezienne, and demi barbajuan, were other pastries that I tried from Monte Carlo, and all hit the spot.
