While I knew nothing about the food scene in Montreal, I was still convinced I was going to like it Early Winter in Quebec – HER//Excursions early winter trip Quebec (herexcursions.com). I love French cuisine, and I was sure that with the blending of the uniquely Canadian culture, I was in for a treat.
Toque
My introduction to Canadian food, Quebecois cuisine to be specific, began at Toque. A leader of Quebec gastronomy – Restaurant Toqué (restaurant-toque.com). Toque is a fine dining restaurant in the heart of Montreal. It was easy few minutes’ walk from my hotel. The restaurant is modestly tucked into a row of buildings. As such, I had slight difficulty finding it in the dark, but find it I did.
A very friendly hostess checked my coat. She then took me to a table that had to be the best in the house (as far as I was concerned). My table abutted the glass windows that looked down into the amazing cellar. A gorgeous winding set of wooden stairs lead down into the cellar. Row upon row of bottles of what have to be thousands of bottles of wine, neatly stack at least two stories on individual racks. Just like books in a library. My handbag was placed on a hook at the table edge. This was a first for me. And I liked it. While the restaurant is well appointed and even modest, the cellar absolutely elevates the space.
As usual, I chose the tasting menu. The mousse amuse bouche set the tone. I nibbled on the bread despite the many courses. But…bread. I can never say no to good bread. And it was good. The waiter told me that it’s sourced from a local bakery. The foie gras was creamy and luscious. I had an option to opt out of the foie gras, but nah. I was not about to skip that, no matter how I felt my heart arteries seize as I sucked in the cardiac arrest-inducing dish. The Cassisier cocktail helped chase it down rather nicely.
Scallops followed. Their buttery goodness made me a believer. I barely had to chew the beef that came after. Still, the squab in red sauce, mushrooms and rutabaga mash was my favorite part of the meal. Meanwhile, I had switched to Sour Boreal cocktail and it was perfect, with just the right balance of sweet and sour. I had a pre-dessert of shortbread with apple butter and granita. Yum. The dessert came in the form of a squash cake with an almost sour sorbet, a creamy gooseberry mousse, a crunch. The flavors and textures worked wonders. But WAIT! There was more. A pair of sweets -melt-in-your mouth fudge and a jelly – rounded off the meal.
In short, check Toque out the next time you’re in Montreal. It’s well worth a visit to experience high end Quebecois cuisine, be it solo, or as a couple.
Eggspectation
Eggspectation is a chain restaurant that serves breakfast and lunch. The location at Complexe Jardins on Catherine street Complexe Desjardins – Eggspectation was a short walk from the hotel.
Likely because it was in the middle of the week, I was seated immediately. I ordered the Montrealer, an omlete with swiss cheese and smoked meats. I replaced the Lyonnaise potatoes for a house salad for a small upcharge. The salad came with a balsamic vinaigrette that I liked. I enjoyed the breakfast. The price was comparable to a similar breakfast in the States.
Schwartz
Time and time again, word on the (internet) streets named Schwartz deli Schwartz’s Deli – World Famous Montreal Smoked Meat Restaurant (schwartzsdeli.com) as THE place to sample a smoked meat sandwich in Montreal. Being a devotee of amazing sandwiches, what could I do but comply?
The deli is located on Boulevard Saint Laurent, the main street that demarcates the city East from West. I made the trip expecting to wait in line. Surprisingly (and gratefully) I was the only customer on this Friday late afternoon. I barely waited for the sandwich to be prepared. The sandwich was HUUUGE! I could only eat half of it, and that was a struggle in itself. I was not disappointed. The reviews were correct.
Patati Patata
My Montreal city guide had Patati Patata as a good place to try poutine. Like Schwartz, it’s located on Saint Laurent Blvd, just a a couple of blocks away. The restaurant is tiny, with just room for a couple of small tables and a few tables at the bar. I found out that prepare the food right behind the bar as well.
Unfortunately, I caught one of the chefs grabbing a sausage with his bare, unwashed hand. I did a double take but then he washed his hands very quickly then proceeded to fill the order. His co-chef did the same, using his bare hands to touch the fries that I had ordered. Normally this would make me flip out. However, in my defense, I was starving. Yes, I did eat part of the sausage-topped poutine. And It was good. However, remembering how it was prepared rather soured the experience. I threw most of it away. Live and learn.
Au Pain Dore Boulanger
My visit to Jean Talon Market culminated in lunch at a bakery/cafe. The bakery sells bread, pastries as well as sandwiches, coffee, juice and water. About four window seats provide the only place to sit and eat in the restaurant.
Choosing a sandwich was agonizing. I eventually settled on the grilled cheese pommes at catonnier, (grill cheese with apple and cantonnier cheese). It was my first foray eating cantonnier. As well as apple on a sandwich. Apparently, I’ve been missing out. The Au Pain Dore bread also deserves a special mention. Bread will make or break a sandwich. It made it here. All for the grand old price of Ca$8.25 (before tax). The Greek side salad I bought was also a delight. The lemon ricotta cake was an amazing end to the meal.
