Travel tips have become essential given the post-covid surge for travel, particularly for Europe. Important groups fueling the demand are solo travelers, and a lot of them are women, making travel tips even more important. Given how anxiety provoking traveling can be (not to mention solo, and internationally), it made sense to me, as a fairly seasoned traveler About HER//Excursions | HER//Excursions (cloudwaysapps.com), to provide travel specific tips and advice to ease potential travelers’ minds. Travel tips specifically target emphasis accommodation, getting around, things to do, food, and importantly, safety. Given demand, I chose Italy to be my first stop in providing those travel tips.
Admittedly, the itinerary was random. A general Google flights search yielded several European cities. A Naples return fare was reasonably priced. After some thought and realizing I could streamline my itinerary, I changed the return ticket to a multicity one no extra cost, with a Rome arrival and Naples departure.
Travelling abroad for the first time since 2019 was very anxiety provoking. So much had changed. I stressed about Covid, trip logistics, and not least of all, personal safety as a woman (a Black one at that) travelling alone. Additionally, this was going to be my maiden voyage as a travel and food blogger. Everything needed to be perfect. It was immediately not (LOL). In hindsight, I needed the mishaps to help me better guide other travelers.
My first kerfuffle began before I even reached Rome. I was not issued a boarding pass for the Paris to Rome leg of the journey at initial check-in and was told I would get it at the boarding gate of my Paris layover. After running through CDG, being turned back from security then dashing off to the partner airline desk with the slowest moving line ever, I discovered that I had a reservation to Rome but no ticket, which meant no boarding pass. Apparently, my initial return ticket to Naples was only partially cancelled, resulting in a non-issuance of my Rome ticket, but with one to Naples instead. I had to call the original airline to re-book the rest of the trip. This is a travel tip to remember. I made it to Rome almost 5 hours later but missed my Coliseum tour due to the missed connection.
Covid precautions: Note that while certain places request strict masking (public transport for instance), I saw no enforcement. The Vatican, for one, required masking when I visited (September 2022). However, most of the visitors (and a lot of staff) did not mask, nor was it enforced. This was a common theme on from public and private transport to restaurants and shops throughout the entire trip. In essence, masking is voluntary in Italy, and most do not.
Rome
Rome is a bustling city of 4.3 million residents. The ancient world is evident in every corner, from the buildings housing apartments and designer stores to the cobblestones that line the streets to the stone walls found in the city. The Vatican City itself sits enclosed behind stone walls at the edge of the city center (Centro), just west of the Tiber River. The center (located mostly to east of the river) is home to major tourist sites.
Accommodation
Lodging in Rome is found at every price point. Options range from affordable hostels to short-term private rentals, and high-end hotels. Expect to pay an additional daily city tax (~€7) as well though. Italy travel tip: use the numerous lodgings conveniently located in and around the city center. I stayed in Trastevere, a neighborhood just west of the river with easy access to the center and tourist sites. It is particularly popular with American visitors. It’s a lively place replete with restaurants, coffee shops, and little corner grocery shops where you can grab water, wine, snacks etc. I stayed at a guesthouse Ripagrande a Trastevere – Your room overlooking the rooftops of Rome. It was moderately priced, spacious, clean and came with a beautiful private rooftop terrace. I also had daily cleaning service and a very helpful hostess. The nights were very quiet despite the building being situated on a major road.
Getting Around
There are several options. On arrival, you can hire an airport transfer shuttle to take you to your accommodation. You can reserve it through your hotel or air BnB host in advance. It’s a pricier option but gives peace of mind on arrival in a new country with no city knowledge. There’s the added advantage of front door service. Municipal-run taxis are another option. However, while they were readily available for the most part, I had a hard time finding one the morning I left Rome. Apparently, they were busier than normal – something my shuttle driver had mentioned when I first arrived. I recommend asking hotel staff or host to book one for you the day before you need it.
Public transportation consists of the train (I never used it) Rome Metro (Metropolitana) – Map, Routes & Stations, and city buses Metro A infrastructure renewal (atac.roma.it) that run routes to popular tourist sites. I took a bus to my Vatican tour meeting point. It helped that an automated voice and ticker announced upcoming stops. The problem was, I had money but couldn’t figure out how to buy a ticket. I’d assumed I’d get it on the bus. Bus drivers’ partitions have signs expressly forbidding communicating with them. So, I didn’t. I didn’t notice the little ticket validation machine until just before disembarking. And I didn’t realize until much later that tickets can only be purchased in advance from the metro, newspaper kiosks etc. Oops. Here’s a travel tip: Do NOT be like me. Conductors sometimes board buses to check tickets. Lack of a ticket could result in a fine.
Of course, you have the option to rent a car. Realize you’ll be sharing the narrow roads with cars that straddle lines, scooters darting between cars, and nail-biting traffic merges. It a little chaotic, it’s scary, but it works (if you know how). Meanwhile, pedestrians simply step off the curb and saunter across crosswalks, sometimes unexpectedly. Driving means dealing with these conditions (and more) as well as finding parking (which appeared difficult).
The last option is the best in my opinion. Walk. You get to sight-see and burn calories without paying a dime. I always use the map App on my smart phone to navigate unfamiliar streets.
Things to do
A visit to the Coliseum, Vatican, Trevi Fountain, and Spanish Steps just to name a few highlights, are a must for Italy (Rome) travel. I, unfortunately, missed my Coliseum tour due to my Paris delay. I was able to take a guided tour of the Vatican and its museums as well as the Sistine Chapel. The background information provided by a guide is better than with audio aids. Suffice to say, the tour was impressive, and I made a point to relax in the magnificent gardens afterwards. Travel tip: If you are crunched for time on your Italy travel, if nothing else, I recommend a Vatican tour.
Once I finally figured out how to get out of the Vatican City (it’s vast!), I cabbed it to Piazza di Spagna, the square that holds the Spanish Steps. It cost €8 (he rounded up). It was busy, with visitors clustered up and down the Steps. I was easily able to still see and walk up the impressive steps though. The view at the top was phenomenal, showcasing the city below. Do NOT sit on the Spanish Steps. At best you will be chased off, at worst, fined. The main street leading into Piazza di Spagna is lined with familiar name-brand designer stores, and small boutiques. It is a luxury shopping haven.
With a little help from the Carabinieri guarding the Steps and some well-placed signs, another 10 or so-minute walk leads to Piazza di Trevi, the square containing the Trevi Fountain. Viewing this beautiful piece was complicated by the high concentration of visitors all competing to take pictures. It was still manageable though, and worth the visit. The shops lining the streets leading off the Piazza contained reasonably priced goods including souvenirs, leather goods, and clothes. I also found a gourmet shop selling artisanal Italian pastas, olive oil, local liqueurs, and wines. I happily parted with my money there. A selection of cafes, restaurants and even one place selling to-go cocktails were available for those needing sustenance.
A favorite travel thing to do for me is to take a food tour. Food tours are a great way to sample the local cuisine in one sitting, something especially useful if travel time is limited. But even with more time, it’s a great introduction to the local food, and guides will typically provide tips of the best local fare. Additionally, food tours are a great way to socialize (particularly for solo travelers) and make new friends (I did!). If that’s not your thing, consider, walking tours, day trips to other cities, and cooking classes. This list is by no means exhaustive of things to do in Rome.
Food
Ah-mazing, and surprisingly affordable. But first off, a little housekeeping; Cappuccino is a breakfast ONLY beverage (Antonio, my shuttle driver, made sure to stress this). It’s supposedly frowned upon at any other time. Breakfast typically consists of cappuccino, pastries, and yes, cake! Travel tip: As in most of the Continent, dinner typically starts after 7PM. This means that a lot of restaurants close for lunch by 3PM, only to open between 6:30PM and 7PM for dinner. However, the sheer volume of eateries means that there are still plenty of dinner options to be found before 7PM. Make fine dining reservations well in advance, especially during high tourist seasons.
I admit I was initially overwhelmed by the sheer number of eateries in Rome when I first looked online. Cuisine ranges from local, regional to international. Only the first two appealed to me of course. My first meal was at La Canonica, chosen for its pretty facade. From prior research, I knew Spaghetti Carbonara, and Cacio e Pepe were the dishes to try in Rome. I tried the former. It was amazing, well-seasoned, cheesy, and creamy. I doubt it was the best in Rome, but it was the best I’d ever had. It made me realize that maybe chasing ‘the best carbonara’ (or pizza, pasta etc.) was overrated and I should concentrate on sampling it from different restaurants instead – take this as an Italy travel tip. My meal included a glass of red wine (don’t judge, I liked it) and together with a large bottle of water, cost me €21.
The following evening, I took a food tour with the Roman Food Tour in Trastevere. It introduced me to Roman street food. This included the crunchy on the outside, moist, and cheesy on the inside suppli (a take on arancini balls but with the rice cooked in a soup), and the heavenly trappizzi – a delicious cross between a sandwich and a pizza that is folded into a cone and filled with traditional meatball, or creamy chicken, or veggies and even an Ethiopian spicy stew at Trappizino (they now have a NYC branch!) Il Trapizzino: discover the most loved Roman street food in the world | Trapizzino. I sampled pizza, both red and white sauces, as well as pasta in a red sauce. Sorrento, Italy Pizza – Sorrento, Rome pizza (cloudwaysapps.com) I tried local cheeses and meats with local honey and well-aged balsamic vinegar. The food was uniformly spectacular. Then of course, the wine. I loved it. Even the dry wine. This from someone who prefers sweet wines and cocktails.
Safety
Safety was a major concern for me. Rule of thumb, areas catering to tourists tend to be generally safer. In this case, the neighborhood was, and felt safe. I wandered the streets of Trastevere at night, walked around central Rome and even ran along the Tiber River one very early morning without feeling restricted. It also helped my peace of mind that my accommodation boasted great security. Aside from the key entry for the building (which had different apartments), there was a keypad entry into a section that housed several lodging suites. All in all, Rome felt safe for me.
General
Full disclosure: I drink a lot of water. This means I’m always on the lookout for restrooms/toilets. To this end, I noticed signage announcing public restrooms in Trastevere. I believe there are some close to the Spanish Steps as well. Italy travel tip: keep loose change with you to pay to use them, typically €1. Speaking of restrooms, the ones at the main train station Termini, are challenging to find. I saw signage for only one option and that was on the level below, somewhere. I never did find it and gave up so I wouldn’t miss my train. Public Wi-Fi is available at Termini. Count yourself lucky if you can connect.
Sorrento
Sorrento is the final stop on the Linea 1 train line from Naples. It is a gateway to the Amalfi coast, the island of Capri, as well as major tourist attractions. It is a small coastal town with a laid-back vibe. Piazza Tasso is the main town square and represents the center of town. A few minutes’ walk from the train station, it serves as a meeting place for some tours. Shopping, restaurants, and cafes surround the Piazza from a series of off-leading roads. The port is located a few minutes away, a short, sharp hike down the hill. A road off the square leads to Sant’Agnello, a quieter, more local town a few minutes away, while another soon hugs the cliffs and follows the coastline towards the Amalfi coast. Along the way, terraced farms grow the famous Sorrento lemons (that can only be found in this region).
Accommodation
It’s expensive. It’s essentially a resort town. The travel tip to finding less expensive accommodation, particularly in popular Italy, is booking well in advance (months). I unfortunately did not have that option. Based on my needs, I ended up with a rental large enough for at least three more people. The phenomenal views and location took the edge off the price.
Getting Around
Municipal taxis are available but are expensive due to demand. I was at the wrong end of the equation on 2 occasions. The first time, both myself and the group behind me were skipped for the last couple in line after a taxi driver asked us our destinations. The next driver did the same, picking up the group, then myself when I turned to walk. Only he dropped me off on the main road. I had to walk up the steep mountain I had meant to avoid. I paid €20 for less than a mile and no door service. On my final day, another cabbie attempted the same. I told him to stick to the station as agreed. He was clearly angry but complied. €25. I had toyed with the idea of taking a taxi Vesuvius National Park. The quote was €250 return, or €350 to add Pompeii. I declined.
Trains are a common and cheap way of getting around regionally. They will even take you to Pompeii 2022 Train Napoli – Sorrento – Circumvesuviana Train Schedule (positano.com). Note though, that a self-guided trip from Sorrento to Vesuvius National Park can be challenging. You must take a train to Pompeii (~35 mins) and then get on a local bus (EAV)2022 Bus Schedule Pompeii – Vesuvius (visitpompeiivesuvius.com) for a drop off at the park entrance (~ 55 mins).
Alternatively, take the train to Ecorlano Scavi (there are two Ecorlanos so be careful) where, for €10 return, you’ll pick up the Vesuvio Express (VE) Vesuvius Express Bus shuttle to Vesuvius | Visit to Vesuvius | Grand Cone of Vesuvius | Visit to the Crater of Vesuvius | (vesuvioexpress.info) to the gate. If you purchase your VE ticket online, plan to present it to the VE office (located just outside of the station, to the left) where it will be exchanged for a voucher that you will present to the bus driver on boarding. The VE’s timetable is difficult to figure out. The ticket states that buses run every 40 mins, with the first bus leaving the station at 9AM. My experience was hourly. Italy travel tip: plan on having plenty of travel time.
For the return, note that the last VE bus departs the park gate at 3PM. If you miss it, you can pay €3.60 for the EAV bus that will take you to the Pompeii station. Italy travel tip: Public transport coordination to the park is key due to the timed entry. Realize that while the trains and buses were (mostly) reliable for me, apparently it was not always the case. A friend had to skip her Pompeii visit when a railroad strike occurred on the day she was meant to visit.
Sorrento also runs ferry and hydrofoil services to and from Capri, Napoli and other towns from the Marina Piccola port.
Things to do
Sorrento is great to shop, island hop, do half to full day trips to surrounding towns and major sites or simply relax by the water. The beach I saw was rocky. However, there was a lounge chair-lined pier next to a swimming hole, with an area for water sports like kayaking. I enjoyed a tour of a family-run farm (La Masseria Farm Experience) The Best Tiramisu Ever – HER//Excursions (cloudwaysapps.com. It produces olives and the famous Sorrento lemons. The tour culminated in a tasting of the family’s small batch olive oils, in addition to bread, pasta, cheese, meats and Limoncello, all homemade with ingredients from the farm. Italy travel tip: I recommend the experience.
I decided to visit Pompeii and Vesuvius National Park. Vesuvius National Park, Italy Visit – Vesuvius HER//Excursions hike (cloudwaysapps.com) Most guided tours tend to combine the two sites for a day trip. I wanted a guided tour of Pompeii, but a self-guide at Vesuvius Park. While more guided tours originate from Naples, a few can be found in Sorrento. I was able to book one with a day and a half notice. Tour duration ranges from 2 hours to a full day. I chose a 4–5-hour tour. It was perfect because it hit the highlights and I still had the afternoon to myself.
My goal was to hike Gran Cono – the mountain rim trail that the vast majority of visitors take the trip to do, but also hike one of the other park trails. Entry for Gran Cono requires a ticket purchased online (only). The ticket is timed from 30 mins prior to, to 90 mins after the scheduled time. It’s reasonable, and generous. And I still missed it by 2 minutes. Our bus had to stop at one of the many sharp, tight bends when a roadblock ensued with the confluence of the clearly inexperienced bus driver ahead of us, an oncoming Audi SUV, at least 8 cyclists and another bus. *sigh*. It was disappointing but I did manage to hike another trail, La Valle Dell’Inferno. Suffice to say, it was good enough to quickly cure my disappointment.
Food
Food choices are in Sorrento are numerous. Eateries are also found in easily accessible neighboring towns as well. I even found several Michelin rated restaurants just in Sorrento. The town also boasts more affordable dining, to indulge pizza, pasta and seafood cravings.
Dinner bookings predicably fill up. I was not surprised when I could not get a dinner reservation for my restaurant of choice, Il Buco. However, I noticed that served lunch (Italy travel tip) as well, with a final seating at 2PM. On the afternoon after my Pompeii excursion, I took a chance and rushed to the restaurant. I half expected to be turned away since I was not dressed appropriately. I was allowed in. Only 1 table was occupied when I arrived. I was pleasantly surprised to find that I could order the tasting menu. Incredibly, they also let me substitute the first two items on the menu I had chosen (land), for two items on the ‘sea’ menu. I ordered pairing wines for all six courses. The lunch was one of the highlights of my trip – perfection. Tasting Menu Octopus – HER//Excursions (cloudwaysapps.com)
On another afternoon, I randomly chose a restaurant and sat outdoors. I ended up indulging in a whole pizza. It was one of the best I have ever had. And I’ve eaten a lot of pizza in my lifetime. That and a margarita set me back €22.
Safety
My apartment sported a metal gate that required a key for entry into the yard, in addition to the front door key. All this went a long way to making me feel safe. I walked quite extensively, around, to and from the city center. At one point I took a random turn that left me wandering some back streets, only slightly lost. I met two local men, but I never felt unsafe. I also went exploring and ended up in Sant’ Agnello. While initially nervous about hiking alone, this went away quickly due to the moderate traffic I encountered. The few interactions I had were pleasant.
General
I saw one sign directing to a public restroom around the Sorrento city center and train station.
Naples (Napoli)
Naples’ unsavory reputation was not a sterling endorsement for a woman traveling alone. Yet I quickly fell in love with it, despite the vague griminess. The city’s location is stunning. It faces the Bay of Napoli, an inlet edged by stunning Mount Vesuvius, the ruins of Pompeii, Islands of Ischia, Capri and Ischia and other numerous coastal towns including Sorrento. The city sweeps away from the shore to quickly rise with the steep hills by way of stairways, alleys, and narrow winding roads. The steepness sharpens as the city rises further, requiring the use of at least one of four funiculars for those who do not want to, or are unable to brave the calf-building, quad-ripping walk to the top. Here, the views are absolutely worth any agony of the climb. You’re faced with a blue-green glistening, Mount Vesuvius in its shadow.
Accommodation
Napoli is reasonably priced. A stay at a bed and breakfast, EFFE Suites, set me back €168 for two nights that included the daily city tax, a simple but spacious and clean room with ensuite. The highlight for me was that it came with breakfast fit for royalty. The B and B is located right at the edge of Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarter), right off Via Toledo, the main thoroughfare of the city. While I dealt with noisy revelers in the Quarter at night, I stayed asleep when it came. As other cities, lodging options include hostels, private homes, and hotels in every price range. Italy travel tip: consider staying here.
Getting Around
The main train station is Centrale and services trains to and from Rome. Napoli Piazza Garibaldi (Piazza Garibaldi is also the name of the location) is an underground train station that is in Centrale. It services towns all the way to Sorrento. The long and short of it all was that I had the hardest time finding the entry point into the underground station. To make matters worse, I barely saw a station employee. I found the signage difficult and directions from strangers barely helpful. It only took me over 20 minutes to find the ticket line, and another 15 to find access to the platform. *sigh*
The metro provides trains around the city. My tour guide warned though, that the trains were so unreliable that locals tend to walk as it’s faster. City buses are available, although I did not use any. As a tourist, you’ll likely walk or use a municipal taxi. As advised, I established a price beforehand to avoid sticker shock. Additionally, I was cautioned from taking the larger taxis as they couldn’t negotiate the narrower streets, which could result in getting dropped off a distance from the destination.
Things to do
Venturing to tourist the sites further south, like Pompeii, Vesuvius, is easier from Napoli. You can day trip to Sorrento and the Amalfi coast, visit the islands of Capri, or Ischia (reportedly more local and cheaper than Capri). Shop from local artisans (some found off Via Toledo), from jewelry, scarves, leather goods, to rattan hats and bags. Alternatively, tour any of the 300 or so city churches, or the very extensive Underground City. It is apparently very extensive, a consequence of ancient history. Buy tickets online, if possible, as popular tours fill up fast. A hop on hop off bus is available and can grant you magnificent views of the city without the burning calves and sweaty ‘pits. You can stroll the promenade, search for the best pizza and pasta, or take a pizza-making class to bring some skills back with you from your travels.
Food
Napoli is the birthplace of Napolitan pizza. In honor of that, I took a food tour that introduced me to street food, including pizza frites, a fried pizza pocket filled with ricotta and sauce (sometimes with meat and cheese). It was crispy on the outside and deliciously gooey inside. Next up was Cuoppo di Friturra, a paper cone filled with fried seafood – pieces of shrimp, swordfish, calamari, anchovies and these little fried dough balls that are obsessively good. I sampled taralli, a small circular crunchy snack traditionally made from flour, pork fat and almonds, as I sipped on local wine.
The receptionist at the B and B recommended a meal I enjoyed a meal at Quartieri Spagnoli Trattoria for authentic regional cuisine. The crocche and frittatina (potato croquettes and neopolitan omelet) starter, and entree of pasta (I counted four kinds) and potatoes with provola (Campanian cheese) did not disappoint. The frittatina was like the suppli I’d had in Rome but much crunchier, and there was cheese in the potato croquettes. Delicious does not describe it.
Napolitan desserts deserve a special mention. I indulged in sfogliatelle (silent g), a shell-like filo dough pastry filled with lemon flavored sweetened ricotta, with bits of candied lemon. The pastry version, sfogliatelle frolle was just as delicious. The baba was my favorite The Best Tiramisu Ever – HER//Excursions (cloudwaysapps.com). I understand the nuvole de Napoli has been popular in the last decade or so. It is an innocent appearing bun until your teeth sink into a center filled with lightly sweetened cream. It is the perfect little dessert. Rich enough to enjoy, small enough to cut any cravings without overwhelming. But you won’t just eat one. Make sure to try the zupetta, another decadent dessert amongst so much more. Italy travel tip: do not leave Naples without indulging in some of the highlights above.
Safety
Naples’ reputation naturally put me on edge on arrival. I quickly settle from hyper to just vigilant and guarded than the other cities. My lodging had a building entry key, plus a floor key to enter the corridor containing the guest rooms in addition to the room key. It felt secure. I navigated the center of the city, including the infamous Spanish Quarter where I went on a run sun was rising without incident. There were very few people about until I got higher, where I met kids making their way to school, and adults going to work. At one point, I mistakenly ended up in private neighborhood. An older gentleman sweeping his driveway watched me take pictures before approaching and politely communicating that I was a private area. While I was always on guard in Naples, I never felt unsafe.
General
Napoli was dirtier than the other places I visited. I noticed areas of piled up rubbish on the street. Granted, I arrived on a city holiday, but it was still there the next day. Additionally, there was quite a bit of dog waste on the sidewalks in Montecalvario. I saw dog walkers not picking up after their animals. Despite these two issues, I found the rest of the city to be relatively clean.
I did not see signs for public toilets. But if you do find any, remember that you’ll likely need to pay anything up to €1. The bathrooms at Centrale, the main train station, were very difficult to find. Like in Termini, they are on the lower level, tucked away in a corner. You must feed the gate €1 to gain access to do your business.
I encountered a random train ticket check by a conductor at one point. At Garibaldi, I also needed the ticket to get out of the station – don’t lose it. Italy travel tip: ALWAYS pay your fare on public transport. .
Capri
The island perches and rises with the cliffs overlooking the Bay of Napoli. Beautiful white Mediterranean homes/villas cling on for a panoramic view that is Instagram worthy. It’s as steep as it’s picturesque. A narrow winding, and vertigo inducing road winds up and away from the town, heading into the mountains. Like the rest of the town, shops line the streets, facing the sea.
Accommodation
I did not stay on Capri, but I found it to be more expensive than the mainland after a quick search. The island is a major resort and go-to for the moneyed set as well as regular tourists. Accommodation may be more affordable during the low tourist seasons. That and booking in advance should be key to bargains. Most visitors to the island are day trippers from the mainland. Italy travel tip: It’s more economical to stay off Capri, especially since it’s very easy to visit.
Getting Around
The funicular will save your life. Probably literally for some. The mountain is too steep to walk up. I used one of the few dotted around the town. I only found and accessed the main one in the center of town. There appears to be a local bus service as well. Fun-looking, elongated roofless taxis also service visitors.
Things to do
There is plenty to keep you occupied. Shopping, casual strolls, outdoor meals while simultaneously people watching and enjoying the views are some of the things to do in Capri. Boat hire allows further exploration, including a visit to the Blue Grotto, a sea cave I never got the opportunity to see. Taking the ferry or hydrofoil to other towns is also easy to do.
Food
It was easy to find reasonably priced food. Lunch from Al Capri restaurant consisted of two different focaccias and a bread baked in with ham, cheese, herb and bacon. One focaccia was topped with crispy fried zucchini and cheese, the other with potatoes and cheese. I typically do not like zucchini, but I confess I still think about that focaccia. I also picked up three desserts from a bakery to go with my three breads. There were gelato shops a-plenty. From what I could tell, there are eateries for every budget level and taste.
Safety
This was not concern at all. I walked around the streets, some of the narrow, alleys with hardly any people, without feeling unsafe. The people that I met went about their own business.
General
They have bathrooms readily available close to the funicular. Just have your €0.50 ready.
