I decided to take my mother on vacation to Portugal because I fell in love with it a little over 5 years ago. While I’d been before, I knew I would get a different perspective of the country in May. I admit that cost was also a factor. I wanted my mother to still have an authentic European experience while keeping costs low. Portugal was thus a given. And so it was that I took my mother to Portugal in, May just in time for Mother’s Day.
Porto
Accommodation
We stayed at the very reasonably priced Casas do Teatro | Apartamentos Turísticos | Porto in the heart of the city. It was a few minutes’ walk to Pont De Luizi Dom Luís I Bridge – Wikipedia, the bridge that connects Porto and Gaia, as well as restaurants, shops, bus stops, the metro and tourist hot spots.
Staff was very friendly and readily available, from booking though Booking.com | Official site | The best hotels, flights, car rentals & accommodations, to check-in and throughout the entire stay. We found a welcome gift of a generous flagon of Port as well as a plateful of yummy local cookies. It was also a clean, spacious 1-bedroom (with a sofa pullout) with a small patio big enough for a small 2- chair outdoor set in the indoor courtyard.
Importantly, we were able to get a bottom floor apartment (in consideration of my mother). We accessed the secure apartment via a building entry code. Casas do Teatro was one of the best accommodations I have ever stayed in, mostly due to the phenomenal staff.
Getting around
Porto is your typical modern European city with a fantastic array of transportation options. Our apartment was close to the Metro and bus stops, but we pretty much walked around the city. The buses appeared regular. We used a pre-ordered a taxi from the airport to the accommodation on arrival, as well as at the end of our stay. Taxis were generally reasonable.
Driving in Portugal
While petrified, I decided to drive from Porto to Obidos, then onward to Lisbon. It helped that the Portuguese also drive on the right. I wanted us to travel at our own pace, with an option to detour as we chose. I booked the car (automatic with navigation) online Best Car Rental Deals with Free Cancellation, Compare & Save! | Discover Cars prior to travel after a simple internet search. To be safe, I obtained an International Driving Permit (valid for a year) prior to leaving the US.
Initially, the car rental place did not have an automatic GPS enabled car. Luckily, a brand new one had just arrived. I was anxious about driving a brand-new car that I had no experience with, in a foreign country. However, after receiving assistance to work the gas pump at a filling station and missing a couple of roundabout exits, we hopped on the highway and were on our way.
Driving out of the city was quite easy. It was past rush hour. Driving on the highways was a joy. I found very well-maintained roads (even on secondary streets). The signage and road rules were also very clear. Expect significant tolls on the highway though. I paid a small fee at the car rental office to enable us to pass without stopping. I was charged a couple of days later, with the fees deducted from the booking credit card . Of course, consider just paying as you go if you have time. I did not encounter any lines at numerous tolls we passed.
Things to Do
Douro Valley Wine Tour
Port wine lover or not, I highly recommend a Douro Valley tour. You have numerous choices on THE 10 BEST Porto Food & Drink Tours – Tripadvisor. Most originate from Porto, however some originate from Lisbon as well.
Our tour group was intimate – four guests total, plus the tour guide Raul and his trainee, Maria. Our first stop was in quaint Amarante. We visited a tiny restaurant for a traditional Portuguese breakfast. It consisted of smoked meats, cheese, and fresh crusty bread. And because we were on a wine tour, we were introduced to vinho verde (green (meaning young) wine). My mother refused, but I tried the white and red vinho verde (yes, it’s a little confusing).
We carried on to the Douro valley. We found an enchanted stoned terraces hugging sloping hills, with verdant green as far as the eye can see. Our first excursion here was a 50-minute boat ride on the river that offered up more amazing views. We enjoyed yet another perspective of the valley when our next stop brought us up a mountain.
It was here that we enjoyed a tasting of olive oil, honey, cheese and nuts and yes, more delicious bread. The accompanying wines did not disappoint. Our next and last stop was for lunch. I had a pork loin. It was not my best choice and I regretted it when I saw the salted codfish. The pork was middling. However, the chocolate sponge paired with port made for a fitting end to a phenomenal tour, and thus rescued my otherwise uninspired lunch.
The tour was excellent, and I would do it again. The guides were wonderful to my mum (who enthusiastically asked a million questions).
Peneda-Gerês National Park Tour
I did not choose this tour easily. My mother is older, and frail: thus, not an ideal hiking candidate. On the other hand, my mother loves nature and I really wanted her to experience the Portugal countryside. I took a gamble and booked. No hyperbole, it was one of the best decisions I have ever made Portugal for Nature Lovers – HER//Excursions (herexcursions.com).
Our group of six was headed by Renata, our wonderful Dutch guide. The trip took a little under two hours and was picturesque in itself. Renata stopped in a little village for breakfast about 30 or so minutes from Geres. We had the most amazing pastries and hot chocolate at the cafe. And it also happened to be the cheapest breakfast I have ever had.
The park was spectacular. We enjoyed a great day of crystalline waterfalls, stunning vistas and an unforgetful lunch. Renata went above and beyond the call to accommodate my mother. As I, she physically assisted my mother for the majority of the tour. She made my mum feel comfortable as the least-able bodied person in the group. Renata made it possible for my mother to have one of her best days of the trip.
Boahlo (and other) Market
Boahlo fed my market obsession. I found market right in the city center. The building appeared new, and was clean. Neat rows of vendors selling fruit and vegetables, spices and sauces, nuts and dried fruit and so on, lined the middle of the cavernous space. A baker, fishmonger, butcher offering fresh and smoked meats (hello Iberico Jamon!) as well canapes and lunch, lined the periphery. The periphery was also home to the wine/alcohol vendors.
After seeing others leisurely peruse the wares as they sipped on an adult beverage, I quickly availed myself to the same. I have to say there is something to be said for shopping while sipping incredibly good, mind-blowingly cheap port that can only be found locally. A healthy measure set me back just £2.50. Not least of all, my shopping and wine-ing came with free live, local music.
I visited two outdoor markets as well. One was actually a weekend market a few streets from Boahlo, the other was located along the Gaia Riverfront. Both showcased products from local artisans like jewelry, bags etc.
Port Tasting
My trip would have been incomplete without a port tasting. Very strict laws govern the production of port. For instance, the fortified wine can only be called Port if produced from grapes from the Douro valley and processed in Gaia. This is where I found the port houses. Most of them offer tastings and tours. Some also have restaurants that offer everything from light fare to meals with wine pairings. Prices range from under £10 to over £100. This is a very popular activity, and I was fortunate to find a ticket the day before. Still, I had to settle for third choice as the others were booked.
In the end, I was glad for my third choice. It meant exposure to Ferreira Port Porto Ferreira | Authentic Port Wines Since 1751, a label that I had never heard of. They offered were the only ones that offered varied a Ruby tasting. I was ecstatic because I never drink Rubys and know nothing about them. The tasting included a history of the label as well as a tour of the facilities. Best of all, I learned so much more about both Ruby and Tawny wines. And that I shouldn’t turn my nose up at Rubys. It was well worth it and very reasonably priced at that. I left a new fan.
Other Things to do
This beautiful city showcases a blend of the modern and old. Make sure to walk across the Dom Luis Bridge Historic Centre of Oporto, Luiz I Bridge and Monastery of Serra do Pilar – UNESCO World Heritage Centre. This double decker metal bridge links Gaia to Porto. The top section holds tram tracks and pedestrian walkways. Cars drive on the shorter bottom tier. It also has views that will make you weep with happiness. No lie. These are some of the most amazing views I have EVER seen. You can also use this walkway to visit the Monastery of Serra do Pilar Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar – Direção Regional de Cultura do Norte (culturanorte.gov.pt) . It perches high above the Douro and looks.
The above are but a miniscule sample of things to do in Porto. I usually do a food tour in a new city but I skipped it this visit due to my mother’s limited food choices. I encourage you to do one there. For more things to do, digital guidebooks like Porto travel – Lonely Planet | Portugal, Europe will be helpful.
Food
I will try just about any food at least once. On the other hand, my mother has a list of foods she does not eat. It goes without saying that I anxiously wondered if I would be able to keep her fed on the trip. Portuguese cuisine leans heavily one seafood and pork, things my mother does not eat.
That said, I managed not to starve my mother Portugal: A Food Paradise – HER//Excursions (herexcursions.com)r . In fact, she even enjoyed the food. One thing she enjoyed more than anything is fresh bread. My mum and I love bread and Portuguese bakeries churn out the most exquisite products. We gorged on pastries galore, both sweet and savory. Yes, we had dessert daily (what’s the point of a vacation otherwise?). The seafood (fish and octopus) was superb, we slurped amazing soups, and enjoyed the most sublime vegetarian dishes. It’s simple: Portugal is a food paradise. The icing on the cake is that food prices in Portugal are incredibly low.
Miscellaneous
I typically travel alone. Planning this trip, however, was challenging because I would be traveling with my mother, a woman handicapped by her age, with imbalance and sight issues. This trip helped me realize that people with infirmities should not be put off travel. There is so much beauty in the world and it should not be limited to the fully able-bodied, because with a few adjustments, people with disabilities can travel as well.
Fatima
We took a side trip to Fatima on the way to Obidos (a stop on the way to Lisbon) for my mother. is the most famous Catholic religious site in Portugal. It is purportedly the site of a series of visitations by the apirations of Our Lady (Mary), an Angel and Child Jesus over a series of years.
The small town is dominated by the Shrine of Fatima. It consists of a series of buildings and gardens including the Chapel of Apirations, Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Fatima, a vast prayer area as well as a Colonnade just to name a few. A carpeted walkway where the devout can approach on their knees leads to the covered prayer area. A few people used it on our visit.
A service was going on when we arrived. It was in Portuguese, but my mother joined for the rest of the service. Afterwards, we toured the beautiful Basilica. There was a Mass, a few people sitting in quiet contemplation, but also quite a few visitors taking in the glass-stained windows, architecture and beauty of the Basilica. It made for a reverent yet vaguely awkward tour. We stopped slightly uphill, behind the prayer area and bought some candles for my mother to light. Different sized candles and color filled containers. Visitors grabbed what they wanted and left money on an honor system. We concluded the visit with a little gift shopping in one if the town’s many souvenir shops.
Obidos
What better way for my mother to feel like a queen (and me a princess) than to visit and stay in a castle? That’s what we did in Obidos. The small town of about 3100 people is an easy drive between Porto and Lisbon (closer to the latter). This medieval town is surrounded by a thick, stone wall of old, with the only access being specific gates. Given narrow cobblestone roads and limited space, visitors have to leave their vehicles outside the walls (parking is available) and walk into the town.
Accommodation
While pricey, I booked us into the Hotel in Obidos Castle? Book at Pousadas Portugal Official Site!. Being mindful of my mother’s limited mobility, I requested a ground level room. Of course, I didn’t know it would be the ground of a castle that happened to be at the highest point of the town. Neither did I realize that we parked clear across town and would be uphill torture, especially carrying bags for my poor mother.
I digress. Our suite opened out onto a cobbled street, while another door led to a hotel hallway. There was a sizeable sitting room with seating and a television, a bedroom with 2 full-size beds side by side, and beyond, a rather modern bathroom. We were welcomed with a small bottle of Ginja, 2 tiny-sized chocolate cups, chocolate pieces on our pillows, and some water. The rooms were a little dark (it is a medieval castle after all) but it was very comfortable and inviting.
Getting Around
Obidos is reachable by taxi, car rental, limousine or train. Trains are the longest. A favored method is by tour bus. Conventional buses exist as well. I believe the easiest way to get there is either rental car or tour bus. The former is simple, the latter requires no effort or thought.
Things to do
We visited Obidos to experience a mediaeval town. The experience included walking on the wall that surrounds the town. I managed to do a circle before the path was blocked off. That said, this activity is not for the vertiginous. I’m not necessarily acrophobic but I admit that I had several attacks of nerves due to the wind, when I had to move towards open space for oncoming traffic and lastly, when I had to take the stairs down. They looked insanely steep, and I only did it after I saw two older gentlemen do it (I’d been frozen in place for a number of minutes at that point).
I did some actual, as well as window, shopping. Small local shops carry everything from clothes to souvenirs to regional foods and even medieval armor and swords (yes). Stalls outside some shops sold the local sour cherry liqueur, Ginja. I tried it in the thimbleful-size chocolate cups and while quite sweet, the chocolate was a palate cleanser oddly enough.
Other things to do include visiting the Ingreja de Santa Maria church. I opted to go running outside of the town and I got to explore the countryside beyond. It helped that I was able to find well marked trails.
Food
We were only in Obidos for a night. For expediency’s sake, we dined and breakfasted at the hotel. While I typically like to try different restaurants, I can undoubtedly say I have no regrets for my choice here. We had our best/favorite meals for the entire trip at the hotel. I did see plenty of restaurants and cafes to choose from though.
Miscellaneous
Visitor vehicles are not allowed inside Obidos. Parking is designated outside the wall. Take care to park in the appropriate spot. One lot is closed for overnight parking, so be careful. The hotel parking is found all the way around the back side of the town.
Obidos was not physically friendly to my somewhat infirm mother. She had to step carefully on the cobblestones due to poor sight. She also had to contend with significant climbing that was taxing. Still, I led or had her lean on me, and taking our time, she made it. So much so she would also tell you that the views and Castle experience were worth it.
Lisbon
This city of over 3 million people is also home to seven hills. This means that as a visitor, you can expect some calf-busting walks at some point in your trip. The city sits on the shores of the Tagus River. Thankfully for tourists, this means a flat, very well developed and long shoreline from which to enjoy the river.
Accommodation
Our Lisbon accommodation was the worst I’ve ever had. On the face of it was perfect. The rental was right in the heart of the city in Barriro Alto. With walking distance to the river, shopping center, restaurants public transport just to name a few. However, the rental was a disaster.
It began when the rental staff refused to give me the entry code until after I had sent them my passport and credit card copies (a first). I had to beg for the code (because I wouldn’t have Wi-Fi to access my email while traveling). I had to promise not to enter the apartment until 3PM before they acquiesced.
The apartment was clean but horribly mediocre. My mum tried to open a window but it promptly popped out. I found out that there was no Wi-Fi access. The toilet smelled like old, swampy water. I was told to reboot the Wi-Fi, which meant standing on a chair to access it the modem. The kitchen was nice. But I had to pull on short shiny tabs to the drawers. Gripping was difficult for my small fingers, and impossible for my mother’s arthritic ones. I also had to open a neighboring door to open the fridge – whose freezer door swung open with every opening. Suffice to say, took at least 3 calls (at international cost) to marginally get the issues fixed (Wi-Fi, window and smell).
The night brought neighborhood revelry from nearby restaurants, well into midnight. It worsened on our last day, much more than I had anticipated the Friday night would be. We slept briefly after 10PM only to be woken by very loud laughter, clapping, cheering and singing. Until just before 4am. All told. I would NOT recommend this accommodation.
Things to do
Lisbon has plenty to keep everyone happy and occupied. Activities can be free or paid. Visitors can self-explore or join formal tours.
Shoppers will love Lisbon. More so with a strong dollar. Visitors can purchase anything from wine, smoked sausage, souvenirs to clothes from international brands as well as local boutiques. Like other cities, shopping can be found in storefronts as well as local markets.
I visited the Time Out Market Lisbon. The traditional market was closed when I arrived. The food market was hopping, however. Eateries lined the walls. Dessert vendors abutted small chefs who in turn competed with higher end chef-led eateries. Those abutted vendors offering lighter fare like charcuterie boards and wine. The middle was filled with diners enjoying their food and drinks on the picnic tables. I also found Taylor’s vineyards in the middle. They offered port tastings, wine by the glass or bottle. The atmosphere was lively, and I highly recommend a visit, if at least for the great food and drink.
Just around the corner from Time Out Market is Pink Street. I never got a chance to enjoy a drinks or a meal at the cafes I saw on the street, however, I encourage you to explore. If nothing else, the pictures you’ll take will be phenomenal.
If you’re adventurous, consider exploring the city on a Tuk Tuk Tuk On Me | Tuk Tuk turístico em Lisboa, Sintra e Cascais | Safe & Clean. Just be prepared to brave the bumpy cobbles from the tiny wheels.
Hop on Hop Off Bus
I purchased the tickets Lisbon: Hop-on Hop-off 48-Hour Bus and Boat Tour Ticket | GetYourGuide online. However, I had to get the Get Your guide app to access the tickets. The tickets were for 48-hours and could be used on the Bus (yellow, pink lines), a boat ride, on the Tagus, as well as a tram tour. I found the schedule on the app only after ticket purchase.
We toured the Pink line (but still Yellow Bus…yes) first. This is the modern tour that runs along the Tagus River. We did still see a bit of the older Lisbon as the bus wound around town though. However, the buildings were newer. The tour included the bull fighting ring. We got off at the aquarium Oceanário de Lisboa (oceanario.pt). I had purchased tickets online. My mother has never been to the aquarium before, and I knew she’d love it. I was right. It was very emotional to see the wonder, and sheer joy on my mother’s face as a huge shark swam by, and when she saw the glowing jellyfish.
Afterwards, I surprised her with a gondola ride. The ride is a couple of minutes stroll from the back of the aquarium. I had purchased the tickets in advance online, but we did not have a wait. We had to hop into a gondola as it slowly moved through the pickup/drop off point. It was a little discomforting, but we managed. The ~ 20-minute ride looped back and was amazing fun. Granted, there were long moments of gusty winds that sent the gondola swinging alarmingly, but it was great. We had great views of the second longest bridge in Europe (17.2 km /10.7 miles) Vasco da Gama Bridge | Description, History, Dimensions, & Facts | Britannica. We commemorated our fun ride with a picture from the gondola photographer. It came with the added bonus of a colorful handbook of the aquarium, to my mother’s delight.
The following day we took the Old Lisbon tour (Blue Line). We hopped off at Belem Tower DGPC | Museums and Monuments | Museums and Monumentos of DGPC | Belém Tower (patrimoniocultural.gov.pt). Despite having tickets, it still took close to 20 minutes to enter due to the number of visitors (and small tower). I helped my mother up the steep stairs to the first level. We had fun checking out the old guard posts and beautiful views while we mugged for the camera.
For my mother’s sake, we decided to leave rather than join another line to go higher still. The grounds leading to the tower were occupied by locals hawking trinkets. Some were a little to insistent, but we were not interested. Our interest lay with the vendors chopping up big pineapples to make fresh pina coladas. Now, I have never liked pina coladas. Yet this one was delightful and refreshing.
We rounded off our day with the tram tour. It was quite fun traversing the Old city, navigating alarmingly narrow streets, sharp bends and insanely steep roads. I highly recommend.
Food
Lisbon boasts good quality, great food at amazing prices. There are bakeries, cafes, full on restaurants and of course markets. Food as always ranges from fast food (McDonald’s but really??), to more relaxed, local dining. Make sure to sample the local food, including pastes de nata (this Portuguese custard tart is divine), bifana (local sandwich), the bacalhau (codfish), polvo (octopus) and yes, the bread. You’ll thank me.
Safety
I, as a Black woman, felt safer in Portugal than I do in the majority of places I’ve lived in, or been to in the US. It’s an unfortunate, and sad truth. Not once was I made to feel unsafe, or uncomfortable by the people around me. If anything, I found Portugal very welcoming. People were polite, helpful, patient and outright welcoming.
Miscellaneous
Traveling to Portugal in early May with my mother turned out to be inspired. The weather was great. We had a couple of rainy days in Porto, but they were for a few hours at the end of the day. Porto was cooler than Lisbon. traveling in the shoulder season meant that we avoided massive crowds.
Expect steep, hilly walks on your visit, even if you plan to use a car or other transportation. Wear appropriate shoes, pace yourself and allow plenty of time to reach destinations. Due to the age of the cities, most do not have elevators, thus it is a good idea to exercise care when searching for a place to stay. Even with elevators, some of the properties still necessitated walking up some stairs. Make sure to check before booking if this may be an issue.
Public bathrooms were available in all the towns/cities we visited. We did need to pay £1 to use a bathroom near Belem Tower.
Not least of all, I realized that it is possible for people with some physical challenges to visit and enjoy Portugal. The same can be said for those with specific dietary needs. This ended up being a trip of a lifetime, for both my mother and me.
