I do not remember ever taking a trip over Christmas before. However, an unsubtle hint from my daughter to being open to go “somewhere,” is how we wound up in Barcelona, Spain for Christmas. Why Barcelona? Think decent weather, good food, decently priced ticket and Bam! Christmas in Barcelona.
Barcelona is the capital and largest city of the Catalonia province (and the second largest in Spain). It sits in the northeast of Spain. The Mediterranean Sea laps it’s shores while the Pyrenees mountains border the province with France. I found out that the Catalans have a distinct culture from mainstream Spain. And it was quicky evident that they take pride in their distinct language, and rich traditions. More so probably because General Franco once ruthlessly suppressed the culture and language in an attempt to integrate Catalonians. One of our guides had something to say about that by the way. She said everyone, even bad men do something good in their life. And his was to die. Ouch.
Suffice to say, today Barcelona sees millions of visitors every year, with a large part of the income driven by it. Luckily for us, opting to spend Christmas in Barcelona means that we missed a vast majority of the crowds (even though it was still quite busy).
Accommodation
We stayed at an apartment hotel, Citadines, in the heart of the city, right in Las Ramblas Las Ramblas in Barcelona: Essential Guide & Advice (barcelona-tourist-guide.com). This meant for a perfect, central location. However, while billed as a studio apartment online, it was merely a hotel room. Granted, it came with a small stove, fridge, and kitchenware, but it was set up, and was the size of a regular hotel room. There was a manned reception where we could get towels and information. We were also offered an option to buy breakfast. Unfortunately, it lacked hotel amenities that I really wanted, like a gym. That said, I did appreciate the security offered though. We used room cards to enter the building, and a security guard manned the entrance most times.
I found the room to be a decent size, with 2 single beds. We didn’t have much a a view from the high windows though, except for the wall of the next building and the spire of the church beyond. We didn’t like the bathroom though. While clean enough, the lack of a shower door meant we were subjected to very wet feet after every shower. We had to liberally line the floor with towels.
Would I recommend it? Meh. It was okay. However, I would likely stay at a nice hotel with all amenities for the same price or stay in an actual apartment if I ever visit again.
Getting Around
Barcelona is pedestrian friendly. Bike friendly. And it has a very efficient public transportation system. It helps that there are subway stations and bus stops dotted within easy walking distance. Taxis are readily available and easily identifiable as well.
As always, I advocate for ambulating over any transportation. But i realize it can only take you so far. I recommend utilizing public transportation. Trains are clean, and station navigation is simple even for visitors.
Things to do
Food Tour
We went on the food tour the day we arrived. This way we killed several birds with one stone; we stretched our legs after the long flight, filled our bellies while getting a lay of the city A (somewhat sick) Foodie In Barcelona – HER//Excursions (herexcursions.com).
Our first tasting occurred at the meeting point, Traveller’s Nest Bar. We were treated to 3 different pinxhos (pintsho) and of course, vermouth. Pinxhos are a local staple, snacks eaten between meals. The sampling sizes of both the food and vermouth was generous. And my daughter and I loved it all, but we did have favorites.
Ewan, our tour guide, took us to the Boqueria Market Barcelona next. There we enjoyed local tapas, typically cold cuts and cheese. The ham was addictive and like the cheese and sausage, there was plenty to go around.
Next we popped into a test kitchen. We imbibed more wine to go with the white beans and chorizo in a sweetish sauce (it worked and I liked it. I enjoyed the Sliced tomatoes drizzled with balsamic with manchengo and mini toasts, as well.
The tour ended with a demonstration of making an authentic Spanish staple – Sangria. And yes, we drank it. And yes, it was great and I’l be trying the recipe. Crema Catalana rounded off the day. This traditional Catalonia dessert is cross between a crème brulee and a custard, one that was liquid enough for me to associating it with rice pudding. But it was still good on its own.
Wine Tour of Monserrat with tapas
My booked tour for the Monserat monastery got off to a slightly shaky start when we easily found the Estacio Nord bust station, but had trouble finding the counter to check in. That said, we were still able to make it just in time. It was a a very large tour group, something I’m typically not a fan of. However, we were subdivided into smaller groups and assigned a tour guide for the day. And that worked out perfectly. It made the tour more intimate and easier to communicate and hear the tour guide.
The monastery sits on the top of some mountains just outside Barcelona Barcelona is for outdoor lovers – HER//Excursions (herexcursions.com). The wind was brutal when we first arrived, but it quickly warmed up. We had ample time to tour the inside of the church before the 11am service began. We were given an hour of free time. Our guide, Gus, suggested a short hike up to St Michael’s Cross where we would get a 360-degree view of the area. While my daughter and I were going to initially do that, we opted for the museum instead (because we would be returning to hike the trails).
I recommend a visit to the Monstrey to any art lover. For £8 (with students of any stripe), we came up close and personal to Carravagigo, Monet, Sargent, Renoir and more. I was surreal to see Sargent’s The Lady with the Umbrella with literal fingertip distance, with no rope. No, I didn’t touch the goods, and yes, it did cross my mind. However, I had a feeling the friendly appearing lady security guard would show me another side if her if I touched the goods. So a fan-girled a nose’s distance away.
We moved onto a local winey next, for lunch. Reportedly the only organic wine maker left in the region, we were treated to a cold tapas lunch with wine. We had a selection of serrano ham, mushroom fritter, pastry and manchengo. Dessert was a delightful, layered crema catalana cake.
Arc de Tiromf and Parc de la Ciutadell
It turns out like Paris, Barcelona boasts its own arched gate Arc de Triomf – Visit Barcelona (barcelonaturisme.com). My daughter and I accidentally discovered it on our walk to the bus station for the monastery tour. However, we didn’t have time to explore it until after our tour, in the evening. It turned out to be the best possible time in my opinion. The setting sun made for a stunning gate. We found the beautiful oasis that is Parc de la Ciutadella, and the zoo further down. While we strolled on a wide boulevard that was mostly fine gravel, people lounged, sunbathed, picnicked or just napped on the grass on the sides. Meanwhile, buskers and others provided entertainment in the middle. Still, I expect it to be very busy in warmer months.
Montjiuc Mountain
We passed the most fascinating cemetery on the way from the airport into Barcelona. The cemetery winds up and down the slopes of a significant hill, one with views that include the port and the water beyond. The taxi driver told us this was the Montjuic Cemetary, a cemetery that was used by Jews. I soon found it out that the mountain is also home to a former castle, fort then prison, gardens, museums as well as an Olympic stadium for football What to do in Montjuic Barcelona ~ Castle, cable car, Magic Fountain (barcelona-life.com). Due to time constraints, I was not able to make it to the cemetery proper, but I did visit the Castle and walk through some of the gardens.
Getting to the Castle was an adventure. I caught the L3 from the La Rambla Leuica station to Parra el, 2 stops away. I got off and strolled down the hall to catch a funicular. About 4 minutes later, I arrived at the Montjuic Gardens station. I joined a long but moving line in the building next door. My one way €10 ticket (€15 return) bought me a seat on the phenomenal Telefèric de Montjuïc | Barcelona Cable Car (telefericdemontjuic.cat). It deposited me at the castle’s doorstep.
The view alone, is worth the 5-minute cable ride. Of course, I could have power walked my way up the mountain. Or taxied my way up. Or taken a bus. I solemnly declare that the cable car was the best way up.
The Montjuic Castle is in great shape because it has been remodeled. And while its recent history is as a prison and execution site, there’s no denying the beauty of the castle and surrounding areas. Higher ground provided great views of port below, and beyond.
I got away with purchasing a ticket at the castle due to the season. However, I’d do so online during high tourist season.
Flamenco Show
We couldn’t possibly visit Barcelona without taking in a Flamenco Show. I found several options online,, some including snacks/dinner, others just wine. I chose Best Flamenco Barcelona Show Tickets | Official Tablao Flamenco Website (tablaocordobes.es) partly due to proximity. Being (mostly) off-season, I was able to book a show for the same day. It came with a choice of drink.
The program was short (~ an hour). However, it was magnificent. We couldn’t help but be drawn in. From the haunting voices to the mesmerizing footwork and the hypnotic strumming. It was a perfect example of music having no boundaries.
Shopping
I have to throw in a quick note here. There is much shopping to be done in this fair city. Christmas in Barcelona also means a visit to Christmas markets. Here you can expect everything from Christmas ornaments and decorations to handmade chocolates to jewelry.
Then there’s Barcelona itself. I found everything from designer shops and boutiques to regular shops like Primark. Make time to try twenty million types of nougat from Vicens Online Store of Artisan Nougat, Chocolate and Specialties – Torrons Vicens. Seriously. And this from a certified hater of nougat. I assure you, it will be worth it. The warren of side streets in the Gothic Quarter also hides a plethora of other shops offering clothing, food, shoes and everything in between.
Food
Well, let’s just say I had a interesting trip, food-wise A (sick) Foodie In Barcelona – HER//Excursions (herexcursions.com). I had initially planned a trip to Munich, before switching it to Barcelona. Because, well, food. Now don’t get me wrong. The food was phenomenal. Let’s just say a slight bout of food poisoning curtailed my culinary adventures for a third of the trip.
Anyway, still expect to eat good food, and imbibe in good alcohol (if you do, if not, they offer amazing juices) when you visit. Expect lots of tapas, pinxhos and seafood. Oh, and did I mention amazing bread?? Barcelona boasts food markets, the best of which was right across the street from our abode, Boqueria Market Barcelona. We found tasty empanadas, their classic sandwiches (baguette with just ham or with Manchego cheese), sea urchins, chorizo, fruit, paella…you get the drift. It’s a foodie’s delight.
So. Food poisoning aside, I loved the food in Barcelona (and no, I don’t know where I caught the bug because I’d spill my guts of course:). But seriously though, this was my first time and I do NOT recommend. All I can say is, be hyper aware what you ingest when you travel, and exercise due caution.
Safety
The single important message that was hammered over and over again by different people is this; Barcelona is rife with pick pockets. We were repeatedly warned to exercise maximum awareness, especially in crowded areas. Luckily for us, we escaped unscathed, and we never did see thieves in action. I imagine though, that the in-tourist season is very problematic for visitors.
In general, my daughter and I did not experience any issues. And this includes when I went running very early in the morning while it was still mostly dark, to walking at night, as well us exploring individually. Yes, she found a nude beach while exploring but the most interesting thing to happen was apparently the gigantic serving of patatas bravas she found by said nude beach.
Still, exercise awareness as always, especially when traveling as a woman alone.
Miscellaneous
You know we have to have the bathroom discussion. I had to use the bathroom at Mercat de Santa Caterina | Mercats de Barcelona | Ajuntament de Barcelona. I had to bring either a receipt or pay a euro to use the bathroom. So you’re warned.
One thing I loved about traveling at Christmas was the weather. It was very forgiving. Nights were chilly but the days were warm enough to be comfortable in very light jacket most days and lasted enough to make for enjoyable evenings. Additionally, visiting at Christmas meant dealing with much fewer crowds.
