I wanted to enjoy the last few days of winter in Nice. You can blame my French Riviera dream blame on James Bond (the old one). Or on a need to escape my winter blues. Either way the result is the same. Enjoying the last days if winter in Nice meant I enjoyed the mild weather, while enjoying fewer crowds, and thus lower prices.
Nice is home to almost a million souls. It rests at the foot of the Alps as well as the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. Nice is just a little under 20 miles from Italy (or 45 mins by train). Granted, the city was historically not ideally located as it meant limited farming land. However, seemingly endless sunny days and clear skies in combination to proximity with soaring mountains and warm azure-colored crystalline seas have since turned this disadvantage into a boon. Now Nice, the 2nd largest city in the region of Provence, is a go-to city to visit in the French Riviera.
Nice
Accommodation
I found my Nice accommodation price lower than expected. I realize this was low season. But still. As I tend to do, I found my apartment via Booking. It was located near the center, mere blocks from the sea. The studio was the perfect size, well equipped, and clean. I was also given a bottle of wine in welcome by the host.
Transportation
As I’ve done of late, I booked a taxi in advance via https://www.booking.com/ had a car waiting when I arrived at the airport. It was much more convenient, and I did not need to worry about looking for transport on arrival.
Once on the ground, there was plenty of public transportation to choose from. This included trains, trams, subway and buses. I did notice though that it was difficult to find taxis on the streets. The only taxi I was able to catch was at the Nice-Ville train station. Nice is also home to a port that offers ferries to other ports, including Monaco and Corsica. However, I believe that they tend to be seasonal.
I had to use the tram to get out of rain on my way to the train. While catching the tram was easy enough, I unfortunately didn’t realize that I needed a prepaid ticket, not cash/card. Let’s just say I spent an anxious two stops feverishly hoping the conductor didn’t suddenly appear. Thankfully, I dodged the clink.
I found the Nice-Ville station easy enough to navigate. However, the ticket machines flummoxed me. Let’s just say it took me a good 15 minutes or so to finally figure it out. That said, the 21-minute train on the gorgeous and comfortable train was worth it. I have never been on a train who’s stations have the most captivating sea views I’ve ever seen, despite the rain.
Things to do
The last few days of winter in Nice still offered plenty to do in the city. I actually arrived in the last few days of the centuries old Carnival. Unfortunately, I was unable to attend the festivities.
Shopping
I found shopping to be robust in Nice. Admittedly, I indulged a little despite not being a huge shopper. I internally gasped at the prices at the high-end Galleries Lafayette mall on Massena Square. I could only afford to make googly eyes at a Fendi bag I lusted after.
Still, I was able to find more budget-friendly stores in the shopping district, including Centre Commercial Nicetoile | Nice Côte d’Azur Convention & visitors bureau (explorenicecotedazur.com). I found everything from clothes, to shoes, food and wine and even kitchen gadgets, from brand-name department stores to local businesses. My airport taxi driver had recommended a visit to CAP3000 shopping mall in Saint-Laurent-Du-Var, reportedly the largest in Continental Europe. I never made it. Still, I would recommend a visit, if only for the restaurants, views (it overlooks the sea), and also the ability to get tax refund paperwork for purchases. I had my refund processed at the Galleries and with tax upwards of 20%, it was worth it.
Cours Saleya Flower Market
The Cours Saleya market Nice (niceshopping.fr) Is more than a flower market. Found in Vieux Nice (Old Nice), this street market is much more than a flower market. While I found gorgeous blooms and plants, I also found it to be a good place to grab lunch. Not just from the stalls, but also surrounding restaurants. Stalls also heaved with paintings, cheese, freshly squeezed juice, regional cookies, olive oil and herbs and even kitchen towels. I also saw a large concentration of souvenir shops in the vicinity.
Promenade De Anglais
I, of course, had to explore the main boardwalk. This a little over 3-mile strip is actually paved. However, I found it perfect for enjoying the sea-breeze, a lap of the water and unreal clear blue/green water. I decided not to get closer to the water though because the rocky beach was more uninviting than the weather.
Alps Tour
I found a few tour options even in winter. They included day trips to villages, a perfumery and wineries. I booked a food tour with 24-hr notice, for my last day in Nice. However, there was miscommunication between Viator and the operator and I was left hanging at the site. Still, I did manage to go on my other tour, despite it being delayed a day due to snowstorms in the Alps.
My Alpine tour began at Nice-Ville Station on the Breil-Sur-Roya train. Our tour guide placed us at the foremost carriage, which allowed me to look through the driver’s windshield a couple of times. Interestingly enough, the train came with a French and English guide over the PA system.
Our initial stop was Tende, a small Alpine village, and the final stop before crossing into Italy. The journey was scenic from the get-go, and only improved as we travelled higher. I loved the small, quaint medieval village of full-time 300 habitants. I was simultaneously impressed and charmed that the mostly retiree community could navigate the warren of narrow, steep (and I suspect dark) streets. We visited the museum before having lunch.
We boarded a local bus to our next destination – Saorge. I could have stayed on that bus forever. It was probably the most picturesque bus ride I’ve ever had. Saorge is another medieval village strategically located on an outcrop. We had to go through a narrow tunnel (one way only) to get to the village. Let’s just say it’s obvious the original inhabitants were not interested in the outside world. Like Tende, this fairytale village had a paucity of villagers. And like Tende, the views were phenomenal. We visited a now abandoned monastery, stopped for snacks before walking out of the village, down to the train station.
While I recommend this tour, the tour guide informed us that the Breil Sur Roya train would stop running in September for 2 years while that tracks between France and Italy were expanded. There is a worry that the villages, filled mostly with pensioners, will die down as they rely on the train to get to critical places like the pharmacy, and groceries. I sincerely hope that doesn’t happen. Still, any visitors only have until September to enjoy this tour before it’s shelved for at least 2 years.
Nature
Nice is located on the sea and hemmed in by mountains on the other side. Thus, there is plenty of nature to be enjoyed Land and Water in Nice – HER//Excursions (herexcursions.com). Given the season, I did not have an opportunity to enjoy the water. However, I did enjoy soaking in the seaside atmosphere.
Food
As expected, I enjoyed the vast majority of food during my visit HER//Excursions Culinary Delights in Nice and Monte Carlo HER//Excursions (herexcursions.com). I explored all kinds of culinary delights, from fine dining to restaurants to market stall fare.
Safety
I generally did not feel unsafe on the trip. Granted, I admit to being a little nervous walking back in the rather dark streets after my late dinner. However, I maintained situational awareness and was not fearful. My Alps tour guide did warm me to carry my backpack in front, especially in crowded areas, due to pickpockets. That said, I did notice a lot of police foot patrols during the visit. I’m not sure if this was routine or not. Either way it was helpful in making me feel comfortable.
Miscellaneous
Public bathrooms are available for use in Nice. Just expect to pay, including at the Niceotile mall.
Monaco
Monaco is the second smallest country in the world. It perilously clings to a little over 2km sq of land that borders France and the Mediterranean Sea. The principality is also synonymous with wealth. Think Formula one, and super yachts. Still, it is tourist friendly enough for me to visit.
Accommodation
I stayed at Hotel Miramar at Port Hercule. Luckily for me, it was also right next to the train station. The hotel was a great value. I found it cheaper than expected with beautiful accommodations and amenities for the price. The room was spacious, clean and modern and came with a sizeable balcony that overlooked the port. The bathroom was large enough for me. I admit the gift of water and a bottle of wine was rather lovely. I would absolutely stay here again.
Getting Around
I arrived in Monaco by train. Admittedly, it was easy enough getting there, my difficulties occured when I tried to find my hotel (4 mins away). Driving rain, lack of direction (and signage) with numerous outlets meant it took over 30 minutes to find the hotel.
I digress. Anyway, I recommend utilizing the very efficient rail system. The ferry was closed for the season when I visited. And as always, I saw taxis about. I did notice parking garages for visitor drivers. However, given the paucity of space in the principality, I have a feeling that parking fees in Monaco are a premium, especially at the height of the tourist season. As such, I would recommend driving only to arrive or leave, but not get around the principality. After all, a rental would likely be parked during the visit anyway as it’s a small area.
Things to do
Tourists can partake in some of the luxe activities that define Monaco (without the hefty price tag however). I could have visited the famous Casino de Monte-Carlo | Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer (montecarlosbm.com). Or a tour and even a turn on the Formula One track. But I did not have the time. I was still able to entertain myself for the day though without spending a fortune.
Food
Like Nice, the food in Monaco is a mix of French and Italian cuisine HER//Excursions Culinary Delights in Nice and Monte Carlo HER//Excursions (herexcursions.com). I unfortunately did not get a chance to get to try a more food as I was there just for a day. That Is not to say I didn’t try though. As expected, there are a few Michelin-rated restaurants, and no I could not get a reservation at short notice (as expected). However, the principality does have more reasonably priced fare, which I found at the main market, La Condamine Market.
Nature
All in all, bustling Monte Carlo is also friendly to nature lovers. Just expect a calf busting (but worthwhile) ride. Additionally, I have not doubt that warmer season open up opportunities to play in and around the water as well.
Safety
Safety I never felt unsafe while in Monaco. However, I had to make sure I was careful with my backpack and bag due to announcements about pickpockets, particularly on the train.
Miscellaneous
There are quite a few public bathrooms around Monte Carlo, including near the Port as well as near the gardens. Granted, I couldn’t find it again when I needed it but I was able to use ones leading to the museum parking deck. And I didn’t need to pay.
Suffice to say, I recommend a trip to Nice (and Monaco) in late winter. More so if you don’t like crowds and will not worry about playing in the water.
